Preparing for Your ESS
The following article is reprinted here with the permission of the
authour. Scan down to read the entire article or follow the links below to
information on the following subjects:
Advanced Preparation, The Puppy Kit (back
to top)
The following are some essentials that will be necessary to
obtain before those canine paws bound through your home. Be prepared - buy them
before the dog arrives.
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The first essential is a crate. This will provide the
dog with a safe haven and you with an excellent tool for housetraining. Buy
a crate that will be suitable for your dog when it reaches adulthood. There
are two types of crates - the wire and the plastic or fiberglass. The proper
sized wire crate for an adult is approximately 21"(W) x 30"(L) x
24"(H). For the fiberglass/plastic crate look for the Vari-Kennel 300
or 400, the Pet Porter medium and the Furrarri 350 or 450.
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When the puppy is out of the crate it will still need
to be confined to one area until housetraining has been accomplished. Since
the kitchen usually has washable floors it makes an excellent choice. If
there is no door a baby gate is indispensable in preventing the young dog
from bounding through the house and soiling the carpets. An alternative to
the baby gate is an exercise pen.
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Food - quality dog food made for puppies - follow the
breeder's feeding instructions. Puppies up to the age of 6 months are
usually fed 3 times daily; from 6 - 12 months 2 times daily. Once again
follow the breeder's instructions but puppies over 12 months are usually fed
a quality dog food made for adults.
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COLLAR and LEASH - rolled nylon collar fit to the
circumference of the dog’s neck, a six foot leash and a retractable leash
which provides the dog availability to run up to 26 feet and you the ease of
an easy grip handle. The line will automatically extend and retract and
there is a thumb-operated brake for you to use to stop the extension at any
time.
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GROOMING SUPPLIES - medium toothed metal comb, pin
brush, slicker brush, nail clippers, septic powder (clotting powder used on
nails that have been cut too short), toothbrush, ‘doggy’ toothpaste.
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TOY CHEST - Puppies need a variety of toys to keep them
busy and to allow for chewing. Avoid any toys made of soft plastic because
they are easily and quickly eaten. The small squeaker or a large piece of
plastic, once swallowed, can block the small intestine causing severe
illness. Rawhide bones are not recommended because the puppy can swallow
whole pieces which block the stomach passages. The following are just a few
suggested items:
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Nylabones (for hours of safe chewing)
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Plaque Attacker Bones
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Frisbees made for dogs - these make wonderful toys
for retrieving purposes
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Kongs (hint: try spreading peanut butter inside
this - hours of amusement)
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Various types of balls - springers love to retrieve
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rope toys
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MISCELLANEOUS - 2 stainless steel bowls (1 quart
capacity)
Care of the English Springer Spaniel (back
to top)
Food:
All dogs need a
balanced food made from quality ingredients that are easily digested. The
food must be complete with vitamins, minerals, proteins, fats and other
nutrients that will promote good health and encourage proper growth and
development. It is essential that the young puppy receive a quality,
nutrient dense dog food. Proper nutrition has a significant impact on how
well a puppy grows and develops. Without a good quality food the puppy
cannot live up to its genetic potential. Dogs require protein,
carbohydrates, fats and vitamins and minerals. Good sources of protein
include eggs, liver, fish, fish meal, milk, meats and meat meals. Good
sources of carbohydrates are corn, rice, oatmeal, oat flour and wheat. Good
sources of fat are chicken and turkey fat. There are a variety of dog foods
on the market varying greatly in quality and cost. It should be remembered
that a dog food that costs less is not always more economical as you will
probably be required to feed a lot more of it. It will also be nutritionally
inferior. Your breeder or veterinarian will recommend a quality puppy food
for puppies until the age of 12 months and then a quality adult food for
dogs over 12 months.
Scheduled meals at specific times of the day help the
house training efforts because the dog’s body will naturally need to
relieve itself at set times following the meals. Young puppies (2 - 6
months) usually need to be fed three times a day, older puppies and adults
should be fed two times a day. The puppy should be fed undisturbed in a
quiet place - a crate is the ideal place. The labels on the dog food
packages will provide a guide for the amount to feed. Remember that the
amount suggested is the daily intake so you need to divide it by the number
of feedings. Your breeder will also provide guidance as to the amount of
food to feed each day and what supplements to add. Let the dog’s
development be the final guide as to how much to feed - a healthy but thin
dog should be fed more whereas a chubby dog would get less.
(back
to top)
Exercise: Most English
Springer Spaniels can be at home on a standard, fenced 50 X 100 foot city
lot’s backyard, as long as they have the opportunity for some daily
exercise. After a puppy matures, brisk walks, bicycling or ball-chasing can
maintain your dog’s fitness. The amount of exercise a Springer requires
varies widely for individual dogs. (back to
top)
Grooming: Springers do
take some care as they have moderate to long hair. While leaving the
feathering long on the ears, chest, backs of front legs, sides, belly and
backend, the coat on the head, throat, neck, back and tail is much shorter
giving an overall tailored appearance. There are two different methods of
trimming the Springer. The first method, the pet trim, uses clippers on the
heads, necks and backs of dogs making grooming easier and faster. Please
note that while this method is quicker, if the dog’s coat is clipped it
will not grow back the way it was prior to clipping. It will grow back fuzzy
and future grooming will require clipping. The second method, the show trim,
takes a considerably longer time and will cost more money. In this method
the clippers are only used on the head, throat and tops of ears. Stripping
knives or thinning scissors are used extensively on the body coat. Both
methods leave the feathering long. Hair needs to be trimmed around the
bottom edge of the feet and between the pads of the feet. DO NOT expect a
commercial groomer to know how to trim a show dog. A commercial groomer will
use the first method discussed. If you want a show trim get help from your
breeder or a handler who is currently competing in the show ring. The coat
on most Springers consists of longer guard-hairs on top with a soft, dense
undercoat underneath. All dogs lose coat at some point during the year, and
the hair they do lose is long enough to be easily swept or vacuumed. Extreme
stress or health problems can lead to excessive shedding. Daily brushing
with a medium-toothed comb and a pin brush will help keep things under
control.
Nails should be trimmed often to prevent feet from
splaying and sore pads and toes. Teeth should also be brushed two to three
times a week with a soft brush and ‘doggy toothpaste’ to prevent tooth
decay and gum disease. (back to top)
Basic Grooming Tools:
When
used correctly grooming tools contribute significantly to the health of
the skin and hair and enhance a dog's general appearance. The following
are some of the basic supplies you will need:
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Brushes come in a wide variety of sizes and
styles. The bristle brush is an all-purpose brush that may be used
on the English Springer Spaniel. The bristles can be made of nylon,
natural material or a combination of the two. All-nylon bristles are
quite hard. They may break fragile hair or cause static electricity,
so they are usually inappropriate. The softest and most preferred
type of brush is a natural bristle brush. It is also the most
expensive.
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Pin brushes are usually used to groom
long-haired breeds such as the English Springer Spaniel. A variety
of sizes are available for easy brushing.
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A common type of brush is the slicker brush.
The bent-wire teeth of the slicker brush are set close together to
help remove mats and dead hair. Most come in three sizes: small,
medium, and large. Slicker brushes will take out large amounts of
coat, which is good if you want to reduce the around-the-house
accumulation from shedding. A slicker may not be the correct choice
if you're trying to keep the maximum amount of coat on your dog for
the show ring.
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Combs come in a wide variety of sizes and
styles, with different tooth lengths and spacing. In general,
fine-tooth combs are best used on soft, silky or sparse hair.
Medium-tooth combs are used for average coat textures and
coarse-tooth combs are good for dense or heavy coats. Some combs
have close-set teeth on one end and wide-spaced teeth on the other
end. The length of the teeth should depend on how far the comb needs
to penetrate to reach the skin. Some combs have handles; others do
not. The best combs are made of stainless steel or chrome-plated
solid brass and have spring-tempered teeth with rounded tips to
prevent skin irritation.
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Stripping implements should only be used by
experienced groomers to groom the English Springer Spaniel for the
show ring. In the broadest sense, stripping involves the removal of
the undercoat using a specialized grooming technique. For a better
explanation on using stripping tools, consult your breed experts.
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Nail clippers are essential. You should clip a
springer's nails once a week. If you begin to clip the nails when
your springer is a puppy and make this time a quality time with your
dog you will not have any problems. Remember to reward with
affection, praise and treats when you puppy has behaved in an
appropriate manner. When clipping the nails just take the
white tip off. You should be able to see where the quick of the nail
starts in the nail as it will be slightly darker. Only clip back to
the quick, never into the quick as it will both bleed and hurt the
puppy. If you do happen to clip into the quick use a bit of 'Quick
Stop' or another brand of septic powder made especially to stop the
bleeding of nails. You will find these products at all pet stores.
(back
to top)
Choosing a Veterinarian (back
to top)
Veterinary care begins as soon as you acquire your English
Springer Spaniel. In fact, your breeder will recommend that you take your new
puppy or dog to your veterinarian for a general health check within 48 hours of
purchase. With your veterinarian's guidance, you will design a life-long health
care program for your dog. Vaccinations will protect from infectious diseases.
Internal and external parasites will be prevented and controlled. Neutering at
an early age will prevent unwanted pregnancies and protect both genders against
tumors and diseases of the reproductive tract. Proper nutrition will ensure
healthy development and continued good health throughout your pet's life. Timely
examinations will detect medical problems early, so that they may be efficiently
treated. Next to you and your family, a veterinarian is the most important
person involved in your puppy's well-being. You will rely on the vet to
establish a regimen of vaccinations and regular checkups and you will certainly
expect her/him to be available when unexpected or emergency situations occur.
Choosing the right vet is a serious process.
Here are steps you should take in reaching your decision:
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Ask your breeder, friends, neighbors, coworkers and
nearby relatives who own dogs to tell you who their vet is and why they
chose that person.
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Ask your local kennel club for a list of vets who
regularly work with purebred dogs. Another option is to contact your local
or state veterinary association.
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Once you have compiled a list of the possible
candidates, call their offices and ask for basic information regarding
office hours and fees for routine procedures such as an annual checkup or
vaccinations. Do they accept credit cards or must payments be made in cash?
What is the procedure if there is an after-hours emergency? Does the vet
have 24-hour coverage on site, and if not, how often are overnight patients
checked?
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Approximately what percentage of clients have dogs? How
many of them are of your breed? Does the doctor specialize in any areas
(e.g. surgery, dental care, eye care, orthopedics, allergies)? Does the
doctor make house calls? What are the provisions in place for veterinary
care when your doctor is not available?
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Pay attention to how the receptionists (or doctors)
listen to and answer your questions. Are they pleasant and helpful, or bored
and rushed? How you are treated on the phone might be a good indication of
how you and your dog will be treated in person.
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Narrow down your list to conveniently located vets with
office hours, payment policies, and emergency procedures that meet your
needs.
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Plan to visit each office, and check to see that it is
clean, well-lit, and free of strong odors. Ask to see where overnight
patients are housed and how they are supervised "after hours". It
is common to ask about a vet's schooling and other advanced and continuing
education.
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Ask each vet how he or she would treat a specific
condition that may affect your breed (e.g. hip dysplasia, deafness, skin
disorders, or kidney disease). Listen carefully to the answer, paying
attention not only to what is said but how it is said. Remember, the vet you
choose will be responsible for the well-being of your beloved dog, so it is
important to find a vet who keeps current with the latest advances in
veterinary medicine and who can communicate with you in a helpful, clear
manner. In other words, you should choose a vet as carefully as you would
choose your own doctor or your child's pediatrician.
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If you don't like a vet's answer or the way you are
treated by the vet or any staff member, it is probably best to remove that
vet from your list.
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After you've narrowed down your choices, schedule a
routine visit for your dog with the vet at the top of the list. It is better
to learn about a vet before there is an emergency. This time, take note of
how the staff and vet relate to your dog.
If they seem friendly, helpful, and caring, you've found
the right vet. It is now up to you and your vet to work as a team to provide the
best possible care for your dog. If things don't go as well as you expect,
consider the next vet on your list, and so on, until you are comfortable with
your choice!
Routines and Training (back
to top)
Remember that the puppy’s move from the security of
mother and littermates to a new home can be very stressful. Make this move as
relaxed, uncluttered and smooth as possible. Have everything prepared in advance
and when the puppy arrives home allow it to discover its new surroundings under
your watchful, encouraging eye. Initiate your routines for feeding, exercise,
play and sleep immediately. These routines should be discussed with the family
prior to the puppy’s arrival. Once these regular routines are familiar to the
puppy housetraining will proceed more quickly and easily. It is important that
once these routines are established they should be maintained as a dog is a
creature of habit.
During the housebreaking period you will need to take the
puppy out FREQUENTLY and at regular intervals to the area which you have
designated as the elimination area. Try to choose the same spot each time so
that a pattern is established. Give the puppy a command that you have chosen to
indicates that elimination is desired. Repeat the command occasionally and when
the puppy finally responds reward it with a treat and praise. Remember that the
puppy will probably urinate rather quickly but do not be fooled. Remain outside
with it until the puppy defecates (this usually occurs after eating). For quick
and successful housebreaking it is important to be diligent. Take the young
puppy out whenever it wakes up, before and after eating and after playing for
short periods. CONSISTENCY IS THE KEY TO SUCCESSFUL HOUSETRAINING. If you catch
the puppy having an accident inside yell ‘NO’ loudly enough to startle and
stop it. Then immediately take it outside and encourage elimination. If you find
an accident in the house but have not seen the puppy doing it there is little to
be done except clean it up. The puppy will have forgotten doing it and will not
understand why it is being punished. It is important to remember that physical
discipline is never a required or acceptable method of punishment.
As soon as you get home it is time to introduce the puppy
to its crate. As you place the puppy in the crate use a command such as
‘kennel’, ‘crate’, ‘house’ etc. Use this command each time. Place
the puppy in the crate with a treat and a toy. Leave the puppy. It may make a
fuss for a while but it will eventually settle down and sleep. Do not make the
mistake of going to the puppy each time it cries. The puppy will soon learn that
all it needs to do to get out is bark. After the dog has remained quiet for a
short period of time go to it and let it out praising it all the time. Remember
to go outside at this time. Springers respond very well to praise and there is
no need for physical punishment.
Always address the puppy by its new name and you will be
amazed by how quickly the puppy will respond. Avoid long elaborate names. A
short catchy name is easiest to teach as it catches their attention. Knee down
so that you are on the same level as the puppy. It will make you less awesome
and threatening. Call the puppy over to you using the selected name. When the
puppy comes reward it with a treat and praise it highly. The puppy will soon
associate the sound of its name with pleasure and affection.
When training the dog use lots of treats and play to keep
their attention. It is important that all members of the family train with the
dog so that it responds to each person. When teaching a new skill it is
important to show the dog what you want it to do by physically assisting the dog
to do the skill. Remember to reward the puppy immediately and often. Puppy
obedience classes are available in most areas and it is important that all
puppies attend these. There is nothing more rewarding than beginning a class
with a young dog that is untrained and finishing the class with a dog that is
well mannered and obedient. A TRAINED DOG IS A BETTER CITIZEN. Look in the local
newspaper or ask your veterinarian for these classes.
(back to top)
*For more information about purchasing an English Springer
Spaniel, you can check out the "Responsible
Puppy (Springer) Buying Guide" (from the
Bondir
website) or the "Getting
a Dog" page (from the ESSFTA
website, the parent Club of the breed in the U.S.). For more information on purchasing a puppy, please check-out "Choosing
a Breed" (from
the CKC website).
*For more sites & information on grooming your English
Springer Spaniel, visit "Grooming
Your English Springer Spaniel Puppy" and "Grooming
Your English Springer Spaniel" by Jan Martin (Ariel)
&
Marsha Caldwell (Marcur)
or a "Guide
to Trimming" (from the
English
Springer Spaniel Club website, the parent Club of the breed in Great
Britain).
ESS
Breed Information Index
Copyright © 2003-2012 English Springer Spaniel Club
of Canada.
Last revised:
February 13, 2012
.
Site design & maintenance by Lynn,
Anne & Barb Dorsay, Bondir English
Springer Spaniels
